#Zine 14 - Ulaanbatar

Ulaanbaatar is easily one of my favourite cities. Yes, I say that about every city I visit, but this time I mean it. There’s something special about it that’s hard to pin down. Part of it is the history and the legacy of Genghis Khan, and part of it is the sheer beauty of the country around it.

I’ve been to UB close to ten times now. My first trip was in 2014, and since then I’ve tended to visit in late September or early October, which usually means I get to catch the first snowfall of the season. Very special! By now I also have a lot of friends who live there, which makes every trip back feel a bit like a reunion.

The city has changed a lot over the years. There are more tall buildings now, but you still come across older ones that make you feel like you’re somewhere in Russia or Eastern Europe. It has also sprawled outwards, and the traffic has only gotten worse. Be prepared to spend two hours getting from the airport to your hotel! On the plus side, there are a lot more coffee shops and halal restaurants than there used to be.

The zine, Ulaanbaatar, is made up of photos taken only in the city, from my visits in 2023, 2024 and 2026. Some were shot in Sükhbaatar Square, and a few are from Narantuul Market. I like these two spots a lot because they’re where I get to see Mongolians going about their day, sometimes in traditional dress.

If you’d like the joke drier, an alternative is: “Ulaanbaatar is easily one of my favourite cities (I know, I say that about all of them).”